W
e’re all aware of the typical fate awaiting turkeys on Thanksgiving, but for a select pair, a presidential pardon offers a reprieve from becoming part of the holiday feast.

The whimsical tradition of pardoning a turkey by the President is thought by some historians to have originated during President Harry Truman’s time in office. The chairperson of the National Turkey Federation, an organization that promotes the turkey industry, has the unique responsibility of overseeing the presidential turkeys. For current chair John Zimmerman, caring for these birds is a distinct honor.

While the turkeys may not fully grasp their special status, it’s still a remarkable distinction for them: “Approximately 40 million turkeys are consumed during Thanksgiving,” says Zimmerman, a second-generation turkey farmer from Northfield, Minnesota. “Only two receive a pardon.”

Representing over 2,500 turkey farms nationwide, Zimmerman raises around 4 million pounds of turkeys annually. However, the turkeys chosen for the presidential pardon enjoy particularly indulgent lives. These birds are raised while listening to an eclectic mix of polka music and AC/DC, and they will even spend a luxurious night at the Willard InterContinental hotel, conveniently located just a few blocks from the White House in Washington, D.C.

TIME had the chance to chat with Zimmerman over the phone in mid-November about the care and special treatment these birds receive when selected for the presidential pardon. The following dialogue has been slightly edited for clarity and brevity.

TIME: How did the tradition of the presidential turkey pardon start?

Zimmerman: The National Turkey Federation first presented a turkey to the President during the Truman Administration. Initially, the plan was for the bird to be eaten. However, some reference a prior incident involving Abraham Lincoln, who received a turkey that his son Tad persuaded him to spare and keep as a pet. The first official presidential pardon was granted by George H.W. Bush. Over the years, the pardoned turkeys have been sent to petting zoos and even featured in parades at Disney World.

When did you begin raising this particular flock?

These turkeys hatched in mid-July and will reach about 18 weeks of age by Thanksgiving week, meaning they will be fully grown males by then.

What’s the reason for raising this specific flock separately from the others?

These birds will be part of the pardoning ceremony on the South Lawn, where they will interact with crowds, children, and flashing cameras. We need to ensure they are well-prepared for this environment. They aren’t pets, but we engage with them daily, grooming their feathers and helping them adapt to human interactions. We even play music and expose them to different lighting conditions to prepare them for the unexpected flashes from photographers—past experiences have shown that startled birds can become quite anxious.

Can you explain how you choose the turkeys for the presidential pardon?

We start with a flock of 44 birds. The selection process intensifies in the final weeks, focusing on their temperament. We seek out birds that are calm and comfortable around people, so we test them by placing them on a table to see how long they stay still. Their appearance also plays a role—those with the most striking plumage tend to stand out. Ultimately, we choose the top two based on their looks and demeanor.

What kind of special treatment do these turkeys receive?

Previous chairs often share their insights on caring for these birds. Some suggest they prefer country or rock music, so we mix in classic rock along with occasional polka to help them get used to background sounds. We’ve even set up a projector that creates light displays synchronized with the music to acclimate them to sudden movements and noises.

Occasionally, people bring their pets to help the turkeys familiarize themselves with other animals. It’s all part of ensuring they remain calm for the big day. Interestingly, when we play patriotic music, especially bugle calls like Taps and Reveille, the turkeys react very positively. We even tried to train them to gobble along to “Hail to the Chief,” but progress has been slow.

That sounds exciting! Did you try any specific rock artists for them?

I’m a fan of AC/DC and Metallica, so they get plenty of that music. However, nothing seems to grab their attention quite like the sounds of bugles or trumpets.

Do you know what names are being considered for the two pardoned birds?

I’m not in charge of naming them. We held a naming contest at the Minnesota State Fair and gathered suggestions at several agricultural leadership events. These names will be submitted to President Biden, who will ultimately decide. Last year’s pair were named Liberty and Bell, and other past names have included Pop and Corn, Caramel and Corn, and Peas and Carrots.

When will you know which turkeys are going to the White House?

The turkeys will be transported in a minivan for a 16-hour journey to D.C., where they’ll have a cozy area filled with shavings in the back. A few days prior to the ceremony, someone will come to pick them up, and we’ll likely finalize our choice of the two turkeys less than 24 hours before the event.

What happens to the turkeys not chosen for the presidential pardon?

Unfortunately, those turkeys will be processed and consumed just like all the others. As I often remind people, while 40 million turkeys are eaten during Thanksgiving, only two receive a pardon.

Where do the pardoned turkeys go after the ceremony?

Once they’re pardoned, their lives are saved, and we need to find them a suitable home. This year, the pardoned turkeys will reside at Farmamerica in Waseca, Minnesota, an agricultural interpretive center that offers visitors, especially school groups, a chance to learn about agricultural history and food production in Minnesota. The turkeys will spend their lives there, enhancing educational experiences for the public.